Grieving losses: Fire in the Grose Valley and Blue Gum Forest, Blue Mountains NSW

In 2006 when a fire went through the pristine Blue Gum Forest at the base of the Grose Valley there was much lamenting. However this time around I suspect that its loss pales into insignificance in comparison to all the other losses in the Australian Bush fires this summer. It was an extraordinary area, which we visited in 2009, and I grieve for its current destruction.

The rain last night left us undecided about what to do today but, after travelling out to Govett’s Leap Lookout, feeling sunshine on our faces and seeing blue sky above us (despite the grey around all the horizons) we made a snap decision to tackle the Perrys Lookdown track to the Blue Gum Forest.

Just over two hours later I was sitting by the melodious Grose Creek as it ran swiftly along the floor of the deep, deep Grose Valley. Nothing could have prepared me for our journey to here! Coming down the mountain was a nightmare of constantly changing steps requiring every bone-jarring footprint to be carefully placed. We stepped steeply down steps carved into rocks, came down vertical areas with handrails between sheer rock walls and then endless steep and eroded steps through the steeply sloping forest where it seemed we would never reach the base of the valley. Most of the way we were closed in by forest, so there were not even many spectacular views to lighten the way. And my sunglasses kept fogging up, just to add to the challenges! On the way we passed a series of heavily laden campers who were ascending after having spent a soggy night at Acacia Flat.

It was easy walking at the bottom of the valley with trails (one person wide and with encroaching vegetation) weaving through the lush growth. This way we visited Acacia Flat (for loos and a look at Grose Creek there) before returning to the Blue Gum Forest track junction area and following the Lockley Pylon track a short distance to another section of the creek. John braved the log crossing to explore further downstream and find the junction of Grose Creek with the Grose River whilst I sat and wrote, knowing that my shaky legs would not support me to do the same.

Then we wandered a little ways through the beautiful Blue Gum Forest with its huge old straight trunked trees reaching up high to where their foliage touched the sky. Despite reports that the 2006 bushfires had swept through here there seemed to be little damage to this forest and I felt privileged to be able to experience it as I had previously believed the only way to do so was to undertake a two day hike. The earth was carpeted with lush maiden hair fern and what looked like native violets (although there were no flowers). I had never seen either growing anywhere else in such abundance.

Climbing the 1.7 kms back up to the top was a real challenge, but plenty of puff stops allowed us to appreciate the changes in zones of vegetation from tall Blue Gum Forest at the bottom to shorter and different forms of Eucalypts further up (with this zone showing more evidence of the 2006 bushfires), the dark, moist ferny grotto in the cliffs and the sheer sandstone cliff walls at the top. It also gave us more of a sense of height gained with each stop (confirmed by John’s GPS which he dropped at one stage – but fortunately it only rolled down to a lower section of track and was easily retrieved, although on this track it seemed a shame to have to cover this section twice).

The plateau at the top featured Banksias, a form of Mallee and a swampy area filled with many lush varieties of fern. Our puff stops also allowed us to discover small mauve orchids, varieties of fungi and other hidden wildflowers. But there were times when I thought I would never make it to the top and it was only by taking it step by step and in short sections that it became more achievable.

Those on the way down or passing us on the way up were all young and I wondered if they would still be pounding tracks like this when they were in the latter half of their 50s! Despite the recommended timeframe for the ascent being 3 hrs, we managed to finish it in 2 ½ hours – so did not really disgrace ourselves (I had expected me to take 4 hrs)!

So, with a sense of achievement and a sense that we would probably not pass this way again, we returned to the caravan to rest our weary bones just as rain threatened once again.

Remember: Everyone wants to live on top of the mountain, but all the happiness and growth occurs while you're climbing it. Andy Rooney