Saturday, 18 January 2020

Grieving for losses: Fire in the Cabramurra area

The huge Dunns Road Fire was started by lightning and swept through this area in early January this year, destroying a significant number of houses and buildings in Cabramurra, the highest town in Australia. Sadly it also burnt a lot of the lovely alpine meadows and totally destroyed the Mt Selwyn Ski Resort. We visited this area in January 2012.


Round Mountain Track Head lured us off the road and here we discovered that we were at 1,600 metres. We took a walk along the walking track into Jagungal Wilderness for about 1 km, unsuccessfully seeking Round Mountain Hut and turned back after walking a little way down the Farm Ridge Track. There were a huge variety of wildflowers and the views across to Mt Jagungal were awesome. And now we solved the riddle of cars parked in an unnamed parking area the other side of Tooma Dam – there was a network of walking/ maintenance tracks through Jagungal Wilderness, past various huts and up to the top of Mt Jagungal and they all joined up in loops with some commencing from the other car park.









Further along the road we found Bradley and O’Brien’s Hut – right by the side of the road. And here the dying embers of a fire still glowed in the fire place, advertising that someone had camped here last night.



Continuing onwards, we wound through spectacular mountain country to eventually overlook the waters of Tumut Ponds way below us, until we wound lower to the dam wall where we stopped (and encountered a young couple towing a Jayco amongst some other sightseers).  We then wound upwards again, still enjoying the views of the Ponds surrounded by high mountains – and now orange snow poles appeared.




Eventually we reached Cabramurra – the highest town in Australia and the centre of the Snowy Mountains Scheme and a town of neatly designed identical dwellings with steeply angled rooves. We drove up to Cabramurra lookout for views over the town (1,488 metres), across the mountains and up Tumut Valley. This was probably the site of the first town as the site of the old school was marked with a granite boulder displaying photos and Lupins grew wild amongst the grasses.

After we visited the neat and immaculate club and shop complex I concluded that the buildings were probably housing for Snowy Mountains Authority staff rather than ski lodges (but this was not clear).






We took the gravel Kings Cross Road past ski runs and the water filled Dry Dam, and across the tops of ranges before detouring onto the Tumut Pond 4WD Trail to eat lunch at a lookout “on top of the world”. Then we stayed in this trail and followed it along a ridge across alpine meadows and then down gradually (and sometimes more steeply) around the side of one mountain, around a hair-pin bend to hug the side of a neighbouring mountain, and then edge a creek that flowed into Tumut Ponds.



At the end of the track there was a boat ramp (with a turnaround requiring backing up a muddy roadside incline) and nearby, some campers had set up under shady trees. We wandered a tiny way along the edge of the creek before leaving, and then noticed a large cascade in the creek shortly before we began to climb back up the mountains.



The prolific display of wildflowers had a lesson to teach as they performed to their best, nodding gracefully in the breeze, sustaining insects and harmonising with each other although their life would only be brief.





Back on Kings Cross Road we now followed it to Mt Selwyn with its deserted ski runs and complex and then joined the Cabramurra-Kiandra road near Three Mile Dam and then took it back to the Tooma Road, still enjoying our romp in the high country as we continued to hug high and steep forested mountainsides which dropped into deep ravines, as we spiralled downwards.

We stopped at a lookout towards Tumut 2 Surge Tank Outlet and were informed that we were now directly above this underground power station – and the magnitude of the Snowy Mountains Scheme impressed me.


Continuing on, our meanders also followed the meanders of the Tumut River and we crossed it again as the road switched to the other side of the gorge, and yet again further along as it changed direction to flow along a different narrow valley. A third crossing kept us in the same valley and, at a fourth, a nearby cement walled channel appeared to widen it considerably and encourage campers to sit by its banks at O’Hare’s Picnic Area. Then we realised that here the river began to flow into Talbingo Reservoir and had thus backed up into this area.

We climbed again and left the Reservoir way below us as we continued up this valley. Then Elliott Way took us away from its waters and into State forests on a road with lots of corners but less wriggles – and in lower ranges. Eventually we turned onto the Tumbarumba-Khancoban road and this took us onto the slopes to look back over farmland to the High Country ranges.


Remember: Your past has given you the strength and wisdom you have today, so celebrate it. don't let it haunt you.  Anon



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