Reflections of a Rural Social Worker: Grieving for losses: Newnes, NSW

The Gosper's Mt fire also swept through the remains of this old oil shale mining town, deep in the Wolgan Valley. We visited it in 2008 and I'm wondering what is now left, although it has probably been visited by a number of bush fires in the past. Ironically the local hotel was relocated to higher ground many years ago after the Wolgan River flooded ( a benign stream on the day of our visit, although it did require 4WD to cross).

Just after the Lidsdale Power Station we briefly turned onto the Castlereagh Highway before taking the Wolgan Road towards Newnes. Elements of lost city formations appeared on the edges of the forested hills to our east and then to our west as well as we travelled up through a settled valley and past the Angus Place Colliery. After this the road deteriorated significantly to heavily pot-holed tar, causing us and our vehicle to shake.

Then we reached a narrow winding section and a lookout point over a magnificent naturally vegetated valley ringed by sheer sandstone cliffs. This was the Wolgan Valley and we were about to descend Wolgan Gap. Of course we stopped for photos and then noticed a wrecked car far below us. The bank we were standing on convinced us that this was not recent and we continued on, winding down and around the edge of a mountain to reach the valley floor and a good gravel road which was much smoother than the tar.

High cliffs still heralded us along our way as we gently climbed and wound over hills, past hidden and more visible properties and through forests of medium-sized Eucalypts. Not long after we had passed the beginning of the Glow-worm Tunnel Walking Track the valley eventually closed in, but it was still a-ways before we reached Newnes. We followed the Wolgan River, which was edged with moss-covered boulders, as we wound through thick forest which was carpeted with ferns.

Then suddenly we were in Newnes with its camping area and shale mine ruins. We crossed the flowing Wolgan River via a sandy ford and followed a track (which would have been the old railway line) to the walking track to the old industrial ruins.

This took us for a 2 hour (5km) stroll meandering through the extensive ruins of coke ovens (there was a bank of 90 of these – 45 on each side), foundations (mostly brick) and huge brick walls all set amongst the bush, which was slowly reclaiming its dominance, and in an amphitheatre of huge sheer sandstone cliffs.

Near one end of the ruins we took a side track and bush-bashed our way down to the beautiful river with its sandy beaches and clear brown rushing water. Here we also found some cascades which increased its soothing volume. Here and there fungus caught my eye and camera as it contributed to the rotting away of fallen logs. The circuit track brought us back along the old railway line and by the river.

Back at Newnes we wandered around the old hotel museum – the only remaining building of a once thriving town – and chatted to the owner as we bought some books on Newnes history and the history of Shay Railways. More people were arriving to set up camp as we talked – most going for the free camping in the Wollomi National Park rather than the paid spots near the hotel. The owner said the mix of historical interest, wilderness and recreation was uneasy and not working very well and we wondered on the impact of a resort going in further back along the way in. Thence we travelled back to Lithgow, negotiating past a number of on-coming vehicles on this narrow road.