The Bells Line of Road initially took us
steeply up Scenic Hill, through Clarence, alongside the Zig Zag Railway, past
Bell Railway Station and past the turnoff to the darling Causeway. Shortly
afterwards we entered the Blue Mountains National Park and gained fleeting
glimpses of the Grose Valley to our right as we zoomed through native forests
before turning off to Mt Wilson.
Soon the cool ferny rain forested glades
of the basalt soils of Mt Wilson replaced the drier open woodland forests,
blocking out all but filtered sunlight, until we emerged to autumn trees and
the civilisation of larger landscape-gardened estates. This time we merely
drove past and continued onwards to Mt Irvine and back into the dark, dank,
ferny rainforest.
The residents of Mt Irvine were mostly
hidden behind dense forest, and signs inviting us to purchase chestnuts were
plentiful. The road then ended abruptly at the entrances to two properties,
whereas we were expecting it to end at a lookout! So we retreated back to the Bowen Creek Road .
Here an elderly sign indicated passage
right through to Sydney ,
but now the road had deteriorated to a 4 WD track with winding descents and a
locked gate indicated at Bowen Creek. As we lowered in altitude, the jungle
transformed to dense forest which was dotted with Banksias and sandstone
outcrops. Ribbons of bark hung vertically from trees, forming scanty tattered
curtains over our track.
Further along, on a section which
switched back and forth, we had spectacular views over the narrow steep-sided
valley that had presumably been carved out by the creek. And lower still, we
wound through lush green bracken which carpeted the tall straight-trunked
rainforest trees.
Upon reaching Bowen Creek we discovered
a bridge and an open gate, so after a brief wander on foot, we proceeded on
over the bridge and along and up the 4WD track on the far side. Our sense of
freedom to trespass on forbidden territory lasted until we encountered a badly
eroded section of track and from here onwards we were crawling up a serious 4WD section which required maximum skill and concentration!
However further along, after some
intrepid motor-bikers had passed us from the opposite direction, the track
improved, as did the views as we rose high up over the valley which was flanked
by rock walls on one side and sheer drops to the narrow creek way below us on
the other.
Then we rounded a bend and edged a less
spectacular valley, although here the 4WD challenges continued in abundance
and we finally encountered a vehicle coming the other way. The driver did not
appreciate our warnings re: the state of the track, informing us that he had
lived here all his life and knew what he was doing – fair enough! He also told
us that the gates were never locked.
Past the other potentially locked gate
we assisted an Asian couple in a small 2WD who were searching for Chestnut
farms, directing them back to the Bells Line of Road to access Mt Irvine via Mt
Wilson.
As we ourselves emerged onto the Bells
Line of Road at Bilpin, we discovered a permanent sign which indicated that the
road we had just traversed was closed – so obviously traffic along it was not
encouraged!
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