Grieving for losses: Mt Imlay area, NSW

Whilst staying at Eden on the far south coast of NSW in February last year, we did some exploring in the hinterland to the west, and one of our day trips was along the Imlay Forest Road, which has now been burnt out in the current bush-fires. I feel fortunate to be have been able to visit this area before the destruction.

On another lovely sunny morning, with mostly clear blue skies, we drove south down the Princes Highway yet again, but this time to the Imlay Road, with the aim of visiting Newtons Crossing.

The Imlay Road took us through Timbillica and East Boyd State Forests, where views of nearby Mt Imlay were mostly obstructed by tall trees. We were slowed by a caravan in front of us, but fortunately were able to pass it not long before needing to turn onto Allen Brook Road, but the empty logging truck behind us was not so lucky.

Road works covered the turn-off, however the side road was still open, and we found it to be fairly wide gravel with just a few bumps. Further on a rougher and narrower side trail took us 100 metres downwards to Newtons Crossing Campground and Day Use Area. Here we found a couple of campers in residence and signposted goat tracks to both the Wallagaraugh River and Imlay Creek, both of which we followed.

The one to the River took us to a section where clear waters raced over flat areas of granite, forming small rapids and allowing us to rock-hop into the centre. The Creek track took us to the edge of a wide pool, with views upstream to more rocks and rapids. As we walked back up the road towards the Day Use Area, we detoured into the main camping area (empty) and found another goat track, unmarked and carpeted with pine needles, that led us down to the rapids on Imlay Creek. A lovely area.

Returning to the main track, we then drove down to the actual crossing (a single-laned bridge), and parked on the other side in Allen Brook – a fairly unkept picnic area near the edge of the Wallagaraugh River. All there was to do here was to walk over the bridge and enjoy the large pool on the upstream side and the little rapids flowing downstream (well, of course they would).

We returned to the Imlay Road, passed through the road-works and a little way back along it, before turning onto Anteater Road, which took us up towards Mt Imlay. This was a lovely drive, which wound around the sides of a mountain, through a ferny forest (where we disturbed a Lyrebird – it scurried along in front of us in alarm before hurrying into the bush) and then drier forest (where we needed to dodge a log on the road).

At the top of this mountain we had some clear views of Mt Imlay through a logged section of forest and as we wound down the other side of the mountain (but now the views were filtered through trees). Then we had to drive gingerly over the lower section of a fallen tree, which arched right across the road and, after descending further to cross a small creek on a little bridge, we wound upwards once again around the side of another mountain. Next the road took us downwards along a saddle to another mountain, where we continued to descend to splash cross another creek, with a sharp dip and no bridge. After this we immediately ascended once again. All the way the forest was dense and lovely, with lots of fresh new growth in places.

We finally reached Burrawong Road and took it up to the Picnic Area at the base of Mt Imlay, noting the signs about logging activity in 1977 along the way. Mt Imlay could not be seen from here, and we chose to eat our lunch sitting on the tailgate of the Cruiser in the shade, as the picnic tables were in full sun. We chose not to attempt the walking track to the summit, having been advised by our eldest daughter that it was a relentless 3 km slog straight up the mountain, and being able to see the steepness of the gradient at the beginning of the track.

We returned down Burrawong Road, and this time followed it all the way across to the Highway, winding around more mountains along the way.

Remember: When things feel hectic or overwhelming, step aside for a moment. close your eyes and think of three things you are grateful for. Breathe in a sense of peace. let go, and start again feeling refreshed! Gratitude App

Grieving for losses: Fire in Albert National Park

The Alfred National Park protected a beautiful area of warm temperate rainforest and stands of wet eucalyptus forest in East Gippsland, Victoria, and is bisected by the Princes Highway. Many of the species within it were uncommon or rare in other parts of the State of Victoria. I have always loved winding through its giant tree ferns and lovely forests whenever we have been down this way, and I am saddened to learn that it has been 100 % burnt out in this Summer's bush-fires.

The Monaro Highway quickly zoomed us to Cann River and back onto the Princes Highway where we turned north and zoomed once again, turning off at Drummer Road to enjoy the rainforest walk there in the Alfred National Park. This took us on a loop next to a tan-coloured meandering creek which was lined with a variety of pretty ferns and a forest of rainforest species including tall Mountain Ash and dark-trunked Blackwood. Tree-ferns of various heights graced the under-storey as did giant moss-covered fallen tree trunks and Coast Sword Sedge with its spear-like leaves. Two things struck me. First, that we had passed many such areas on the WB Line Track, only gaining glimpses of them at creek crossings and second, that it took a major highway to provide the only real access to such an area!

The following day, at Genoa we turned south down the Princes Highway and travelled down towards Cann River. It was a nice cool but sunny morning of blue skies but with grey-tinged clouds beginning to build up. As we travelled through the beautiful Alfred National Park I once again admired the ferny under-storey that covered its steep mountain sides.

 We listened to a radio interview with Greg Mullet, commissioner of the NSW Fire Brigade and his talking about bush fires reminded us of the danger side of this landscape. Freakily my Lonely Planet Guide’s entry on this National Park mentioned that it had been burnt out in the 1983 bush-fire. Every time we cross a river or creek, however, we can guarantee that it will contain water – this being in stark contrast to the drier areas around home, as is the greenness of the countryside we are traversing.

 Remember: People can be so quiet about their pain, that you forget they are hurting. That is why it is so important to always be kind. Gratitude App

Grieving for losses: Fire in Coopracambra National Park, Victoria

This National Park is in the northern part of East Gippsland and shares a border with the Vic/ NSW State border. Over 40 % of this Park has been ravaged by recent fires, and I want to pay tribute to the beauty we found in our drive through it in 2008. Wangarabell is a small settlement that has been in the fire zone too.

At Genoa we turned north and travelled up the highway for a short distance before turning onto a gravel road and going deeper into the bush towards Wangarabell. Immediately we were winding around the edge of a mountain through fern and moss encrusted forest with views across to other mountains and sunlight filtering through the tall Eucalypts and rocky outcrops. Flowering Heath provided splashes of pink here and there. Occasionally wallabies bounded away in the forest and we passed a vehicle towing a trailer.

At Wangarabell we emerged into a cleared valley with contentedly grazing cattle and grey, unkempt but picturesque weatherboard sheds. We crossed one tiny timber bridge and later carefully edged past an old jeep which was travelling very slowly in our direction. Following our map, we ended up at a property gate, so turned and travelled further up the road. The jeep was now ahead of us so we caught up and asked directions from its elderly driver. Apparently we did need to go into the property and ask for directions.

Now I began to feel like a trespasser but the woman in the farmhouse was very helpful and gave us detailed information about how to cross the Genoa River (past the cattle yards, through some gates, over the paddocks then across the ford where we should find her husband). We did all this successfully but did not find her husband, found a maze of tracks on the other side of the river but the GPS guided us through them and onto Tasker’s Track. Congratulating ourselves, we continued on along this well formed gravel road until we were abruptly stopped by a locked gate at our exit point out of private land. It was obviously designed to prevent people entering from the other side but it also effectively locked us in.

We now had no option but to backtrack into Wangarabell where we attempted to find another way across the river by attempting to follow one more track. This took us to the river (and a lovely camping spot) but the crossing was too risky and the track on the far side too indistinct so we returned along the 18 kms of forest track to the highway. 

Back through Genoa we now journeyed south to pick up the Genoa Creek Track which proved to be rough, eroded, overgrown, vegetated in the middle and definitely 4WD. We bush-bashed our way along it for many kilometres, brushed by close growing vegetation on both sides, driving over the top of young saplings and negotiating one wash-out. We certainly do things the challenging way (whilst looking at each other from time to time and commenting that we are mad)!

Passing the junction with the Three Mile Creek Track we continued on and the track improved a little. Most of the time we had been traversing the top of a heavily forested ridge. Eventually we emerged onto the well-formed (by comparison) Jones Creek Track (the recommended route) and shortly afterwards entered the Coopracambra National Park. Now the vegetation thickened and we soon turned onto the WB Line to continue on through forests teeming with young trees.

Eventually this track took us steeply upwards and then up and down along another ridge with views of other mountains glimpsed through the trees until we drove very steeply up to Mealing Hill helipad where we had 360 degree views of wilderness mountains and the coast at Mallacoota.

Thereafter the WB Line continued to follow the contours of the edge of the mountain and ridges, ever rising and falling dramatically. Fresh lime-green Tree-ferns grew in some damper depressions and Bracken grew in abundance everywhere. We paused at one creek crossing for photos and I could hear a frog chorus as a gentle breeze rustled the leaves.

Further on we passed the beginning of the Yambulla Walking Track to the Genoa River (3 hrs one way) where access to the reportedly beautiful gorges was possible but reputed to be a 2 day trek. So on we went, delighting in the creek crossings and the tall forests until we reached Beehive Falls. These proved to be not much more than a trickle coming down a rounded rock face with some small cascades further downstream. We could access the cascades but were unable to gain a clear view of the falls as small trees impeded this.

We then followed the WB Line out to the Monaro Highway and finally stopped for lunch at Chandlers Creek by the Cann River, having found no suitable spots within the National Park. The Monaro Highway quickly zoomed us to Cann River and back onto the Princes Highway where we turned north and zoomed once again.

 Near Genoa we visited the delightful but not sign-posted-off-the-highway Genoa Falls which had even less water in them than when we had been here over 5 years ago. We found some enchanting small cascades backed by ferns, then wearily climbed up the steps to the Cruiser.

 Remember: Love like someone's life depends on it. Be compassionate, understanding and kind. You never know who's crying inside or this close to giving up. Lori Deschene

Grieving for losses: Fire around Genoa River, Mallacoota Victoria

My third tribute to losses from the bush-fires, is to Genoa River, which we paddled in our kayak in 2008. This is how it was then.

After a lazy morning for me and successfully pursing a replacement paddle for John we drove out to Bastion Point for photos of the inlet as the day was, for now, blue and sunny despite the grey clouds building up to the west. The local boating supplier had single paddles and he took the blade off one and riveted it to our empty paddle. John then went to the local hardware shop and bought some expanding foam which he squirted into all the paddle cavities to minimise the chance of them sinking if they fell off.

So, with an increased sense of safety, we drove out to Gipsy Point to launch our kayak and paddle up Genoa River, its anabranch and Maramingo Creek. The owner of the nearby Gipsy Point Lodge was seeing a couple of families off in hired motor boats (one child had a whistle which they blew constantly) and he took an interest in our rig (especially John’s rudder set-up) and kindly gave us a map of the river to take with us.

Our paddle proved to be a return trip of 9 km taking us first up the broad Genoa River then along the delightful anabranch, where we had to negotiate snags, shallower water and close growing vegetation, back out onto the Genoa River and then up through the forest-lined Maramingo Creek that progressively narrowed. We were eventually turned back by a mossy log submerged just below the surface and a scan of the creek ahead showed it was covered with rock shoals. We had been hoping to make it all the way to a ford and 4WD track but calculated we had been very close.

On the way up the Genoa River we had passed a huge Sea-eagle’s nest and we saw a water dragon in the anabranch. A fallen tree right across the anabranch provided some tricky manoeuvring but we successfully passed under it, ducking our heads as we went. In many places Mullet were jumping out of the brown-tinged water. We encountered no-one else until we were on the return journey, having lunched on a grassy, Paper-barked lined bank on the Genoa River near where the creek branched off. Then we passed a canoeing fisherman and a couple fishing from a small motor boat.

Later in the afternoon, we drove back to Bastion Point for a walk along the beach to the mouth of the inlet. It was a lovely time of day and I enjoyed having the lacy waves kiss my legs and feet and bathe the sand from my toes. A rainbow briefly appeared over Cape Howe (the border between Victoria and NSW) and it was peaceful. We had the long beach almost to ourselves, and found that the inlet channel was very deep and wider than the one at Wingan Inlet, and looked treacherous with rips and eddies.

Remember: The simple gifts of a little smile and a little love can make even the darkest day much brighter. Doe Zantamata